I went surfing with a buddy this Sunday. The water was freezing, wind howling, rip going down the beach, Portuguese Man o’ War all over the beach and nothing but head-high blown out surf. We both needed to surf but this wasn’t really surfing. More like a good cold paddle. When the wind is that strong from any southerly direction it becomes a real pain getting out. We stayed out for no more than 35 minutes, which was enough to drift 1/2 mile.
While heading in I mutter to my buddy, “at least we went surfing, at least we got a work out”. He said, “If I wanted a cold paddle workout I’d hop in my parents pool”.

I wondered why would I; when the surf was soo poor and cold, want to go freeze my ass off getting dunked by a bad wind swell.

Have you ever have that feeling that being scared makes you feel more alive? I didn’t catch one wave worth anything, but getting dragged out in a bad rip, dodging dumpy shallow waves, and coming within 6 inches of a Man o’ War was something that made me feel good.

Strange but true.